Published by Icon Books, 2015, 368 pages

Helen Russell lived in London, working crazy hours with hardly any time off. When her partner is offered a job at Lego in Jutland, Denmark, they realize that it is going to be a complete change of pace. It’s not just a move to another country but also from a city to the countryside. Russell decides she will spend her time getting to know “the happiest country in the world”.

Happiest country? Really? Russell starts out being skeptical, but almost every Dane she asks rates themselves 8 to 10 out of 10 for happiness. So what is the secret? For one, the pastries are amazing. There is a strong work-life balance—people come home at 4 in the afternoon at the latest, and anyone putting in extra hours is seen as being badly organized.

The taxes are high but the state takes care of its citizens from birth to death, with generous subsidies for school, homes, health and so on. This gives people a safety net and the freedom to live the way they want, which means they take up jobs they enjoy. And because education is free, they can train as often as they want to. Russell gains first-hand experience of the social system when she becomes pregnant and is impressed by the level of care.

But there is a downside, of course. In spite of Denmark being gender equal, there is still a high level of sexual violence, and employers hesitate to hire women of child-bearing age. There is also pressure to conform, tradition being big in Denmark. There are clubs for every kind of activity, so leisure is regimented: each club is assigned a particular day, including the swinging club! People can plan their days for an entire year.

Russell is funny about her attempts to fit in as a rather anarchic person. There are some wonderful moments: while trying to tell her Danish teacher she has seen the TV series The Killing, she inadvertently calls her a bitch (kaelling); she is told off for flying a Union Jack, as the only flag allowed is the Danish one; and her dog shows he sorely needs training to fit into Danish society.

I hadn’t expected to enjoy this book as much as I did but Russell’s fondness for Denmark shines through. She made me laugh but also taught me a lot about a country I only knew through the small screen.

This review first appeared on Women on the Road.